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Guides
Diagnose a controller problem, fix it at home and check the result with the tools on this site.
A drifting stick rests a few degrees off center even with no finger on it. On screen that small tilt becomes constant movement.
Stick drift explained
Your character creeps forward, the camera slowly pans, a menu scrolls by itself. That is stick drift, and it is the most common fault in modern controllers. Here is what is happening inside the stick and how to put a number on it.
Connected but not detected: the pad is powered, yet nothing reaches the game.
Controller not detected on PC
The light is on, Windows made the connection sound, and the game ignores the pad. Nine times out of ten the controller is fine and something in between is swallowing its input. Work down this list and test after each step.
A blinking connection light every few minutes usually points to power or interference rather than a dead controller.
Controller keeps disconnecting
A pad that drops out mid-match is worse than one that does not work at all. Random disconnects almost always come from power or radio, not from the buttons or sticks, which is good news because both are fixable at home.
Latency adds up link by link. The controller's share is measurable in the browser.
Controller input lag and polling rate
Input lag on a controller is rarely the controller alone. It is the sum of the radio link, the operating system, the game and the display. Here is how to see the first part in numbers and what to change.
Dead or sticky buttons rarely mean the controller is finished. The usual suspects are the rubber membrane and dirt.
Controller buttons not working or sticking
Face buttons, bumpers and D-pads fail in predictable ways: no response, two presses for one, or a button that stays down. Each has a different cause and most are a ten-minute fix.
Two motors, one heavy, one light, each with its own weight. Testing them separately isolates a failed side.
Controller vibration not working
Rumble fails in two ways. Either nothing is telling the motors to spin, which is a software problem, or a motor is told to spin and cannot, which is hardware. One test tells you which.
Slow blink, fast blink, double blink: each pattern is a different message.
Xbox controller blinking
The Xbox button is the controller's only status light, and it speaks in patterns. Read the pattern first; it tells you whether the pad is searching, paired to something else, out of power or stuck in an update.
No orange pulse on the light bar means the controller is not taking a charge.
PS5 controller not charging
A DualSense that will not charge is usually a cable problem, sometimes a port problem and rarely a battery problem. The order matters because the first is free, the second needs a soldering station and the third needs a part.
One dead face button, the rest fine: the usual sign of a dirty or worn membrane pad under that button.
PS5 controller buttons not working
A DualSense that ignores one button is rarely broken beyond repair. The fault almost always sits in one of four places, and each has its own fingerprint once you test the buttons one by one.
Port replacement is hot-air work: the board is preheated, the area around the port is shielded, and the old port lifts off once the solder melts.
PS5 controller charging port replacement
The USB-C port is the part of a DualSense that wears out first: every plug-in levers it against its solder joints. When charging depends on the cable angle, the port has to be replaced. Here is how to confirm it and how the swap is done.
A trigger that is slow to return or squeaks when pressed has a dry pivot or a spring out of its seat.
Xbox controller trigger sticky, squeaky or stuck
Xbox triggers are simple mechanisms: a plastic lever on a pivot, a return spring and a magnet that the controller reads. Sticking, squeaking and loud clicking all come from the pivot and the spring, and all can be fixed at home.